Series Guides

Buffalo Nickel Type 1 vs Type 2: How to Tell Them Apart

The Buffalo nickel changed within months of its release in 1913, and that change created two types that every collector learns to recognize. The difference is easy once you know where to look, but it matters for type sets, date sets and spotting coins that have been altered. This guide covers the two types, the mint mark, the date problem, strike quirks and the red flags to watch for.

A short history of the design

The Buffalo nickel, also called the Indian Head nickel, was designed by sculptor James Earle Fraser and first struck in 1913. The obverse shows a Native American man in profile, and the reverse shows an American bison. The design was part of an early 20th century push to make US coins more artistic, alongside designs like the Lincoln cent and the coins of 1916. It was replaced by the Jefferson nickel in 1938.

Fraser's design used relatively high relief and placed key details on the most exposed parts of the coin. That gave the Buffalo nickel its striking look, but it also created practical problems that collectors deal with to this day: dates that wear away, a denomination that wore off in the first design, and strikes that are often soft.

Type 1 vs Type 2 at a glance

Because both types exist for 1913, a 1913 Buffalo nickel needs a reverse check before you can identify it. In a type set, collectors include one of each. See our post on pre-1965 US coin collecting for how Buffalo nickels fit into a broader set.

Finding the mint mark

On both types, the mint mark is on the reverse, directly below the words FIVE CENTS. A D means Denver and an S means San Francisco. No mint mark means Philadelphia. On worn coins, the mint mark area can be weak. Use a loupe and a single light, and do not assume a letter is there unless you can clearly see its shape. Our guide on reading a worn mint mark without inventing one explains how to avoid wishful reading.

The date problem

The date on a Buffalo nickel sits on the Indian's shoulder, one of the highest points of the obverse. It wore away quickly, so many circulated Buffalos are partially or completely dateless. Collectors often find these in old accumulations.

In the past, people used acid-based "date restorer" solutions to bring a ghost of the date back. These products work by etching the metal, which leaves a permanent discolored and pitted patch on the shoulder. The hobby considers that damage. If you want to read a faint date, try angled light, magnification and patience first. Our post on recovering Buffalo nickel dates without acid walks through non-destructive methods.

Strike: why so many Buffalos look soft

The Buffalo nickel is well known for soft strikes, particularly on many branch-mint coins from the 1920s. The areas most often affected are:

• the bison's head and the top of the shoulder hump,
• the horn, which can be incomplete even on uncirculated coins,
• the Indian's hair and braid details,
• the date area.

A soft strike with full luster is different from wear. Under a single light, tilt the coin: if luster rolls unbroken over the soft areas, the softness comes from the strike. If those areas are dull and smooth while the fields show wear too, it is circulation.

Where Buffalo nickels wear first

On Type 1 coins, also look at FIVE CENTS on the mound, which wears along with the high points. On Type 2 coins, the recessed denomination usually stays clear even on worn coins.

Common problems and red flags

• Acid-treated dates: a dull, rough, discolored area on the shoulder where the date has been "brought back."
• Cleaning: nickel cleans poorly. Look for an overly bright, brassy or uniformly flat look and fine hairlines.
• Added mint marks: especially on scarcer branch-mint dates.
• Altered "three-legged" bison: a well-known variety where the bison's front leg is missing due to die polishing. Some fakes are made by removing the leg on a normal coin. Genuine examples show specific diagnostic features; leave this to professional authentication and variety specialists.
• Counterfeits: cast or struck fakes exist for scarce dates. Check weight, edge and surface texture, and see common counterfeit edge mistakes.
• Corrosion: dark spots and pitting from damp storage, common on coins from old jars and the ground.

Variety coins like the three-legged bison and overdates are a specialty covered by our sister site ErrorCoins.co.

How to collect Buffalo nickels

Type collecting

One Type 1 and one Type 2 cover the series for a type set. A 1913 Type 1 with a full horn and clear FIVE CENTS is an attractive choice; any common date in the 1930s works well for Type 2.

Date and mint set

A full set runs from 1913 through 1938 with all three mints. Many collectors build it in circulated grades in an album and then upgrade key slots. Dated coins with full horns are the goal for any circulated set.

Grade consistency

Because strike varies so much, try to compare coins against certified examples of the same date and mint rather than the series as a whole. A soft 1920s branch-mint coin may still be a good example for its date.

Researching your Buffalo nickels

We do not publish values. To research a coin yourself, start with type, date, mint mark and an honest grade based on the horn and the wear points above. Note strike and any problems, especially acid treatment or cleaning. Then compare against sold listings of coins that match on all of those factors, giving extra weight to certified examples. A standard reference book provides mintages and context, and auction archives give you real results for comparable coins.